As you wander through the leafy streets of Medellín at night, lit by the familiar orange glow of the city and brushed with the gentle breeze of a never-ending Spring, it can be hard to imagine that this city was once the stronghold of one of the most notorious criminals in modern memory.
Pablo Escobar and his Medellín Cartel once ran the streets of Medellín using a mix of intimidation, violence and bribery, resulting in the murder of hundreds of innocent civilians, and many police and government officials. Though he was eventually killed by Colombian police in 1993, his legacy can still be felt in cultural memory.
In cultural memory, however, it looks to stay. Medellín’s radical transformation from the days of terror that reigned in the 80s and 90s is not only indicative of Colombia’s progress, but a story unto itself. For a city to go from the murder capital of the world to one of the most sought after cities to live in over the course of little more than a decade is awe-inspiring, and gives hope to other cities in the throes of corruption.
It hasn’t come without hard work, of course, but it’s the hard work of the Paisa people that characterises the city. Industrious, forward-thinking and progressive, Medellín owes a great deal of credit to the general population who have sought to make their city somewhere to be proud of. The local government, for their part, have introduced schemes such as the Metro and MetroCable which have not only made communication in the city easier, but have brought vulnerable, disillusioned communities into the hub of the city and encouraged interaction between Medellín as a whole.
The result is something quite remarkable. Medellín typifies a modern city. It’s clean, full of impressive architecture and dotted with pleasant green spaces. People respect the city and care for it, the local government taking great care to engender a sense of shared pride and ownership.
There’s also, of course, plenty to do. The cultural options are endless (check out Jack Magazine for your heads up), there’s a great selection of bars and clubs and you can expect to find some of Colombia’s best food, too. All in all Medellín has dramatically moved on from the troubles some still associate with it, and it should be seen to be believed and enjoyed.
Paul
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George Walther on
Just back from my first visit, and here’s how it struck me:
What You “Know” Is True About Medellin, Colombia… Isn’t
Drug lords, corrupt police, commandos with machine guns in every alley, rampant murders and kidnappings… WRONG!
Maybe 20 years ago, but now Pablo Escobar is long dead, Colombia’s second largest city (population a little less than 3 million) is all cleaned up, and tourism is thriving. I’ve felt completely safe and comfortable in this lovely place.
Although I live in Barcelona this year, I’m starting the planning process for next year’s move and decided to check out Medellin, having heard good reports from other travelers. I’ve concluded that I could live here quite happily, but it IS third world, which wouldn’t work for Barbie.
Medellin’s called the “City of Eternal Springtime” and it deserves the name. The year-round temperature averages 72 degrees, and there’s little seasonal variation here, just 6 degrees north of the equator in a deep valley of the northern Andes. Palms and pines thrive, along with tropical fruits and coffee… lots of coffee. What’s more, if the climate here at 5000 feet doesn’t suit you, in less than an hour’s bus ride you can be much colder on high altitude glaciers, or quite hot in tropical climes.
Police are everywhere, and seem eager to help; not at all threatening. I imagine the drug barons are still thriving in remote haciendas, but there’s no sign of crime on the streets. I sampled the nightlife in the throbbing “Zona Rosa” and felt not a hint of danger. Discos blared and revelers enjoyed themselves, but nobody I saw got out of line. (I even stayed up after midnight!)
Because “conventional” North American travelers avoid Colombia, believing that the stereotypical image of danger and violence is accurate, you’re most likely to encounter intrepid and freethinking backpacker types (like me) and won’t find many locals who speak English. Gringo travelers are fairly rare, and very welcome.
Medellin’s in a very beautiful setting; lush green hillsides with coffee plantations all around. The taxi ride from the airport is scenic with an almost breathtaking view down to the valley in which Medellin nestles.
Yes, there are slums. But in Medellin, the public transport system includes ski-lift-type gondolas carrying working folk up the steep valley walls to where the poorest inhabitants live. They have the best views, and the most fun getting to town. A metro ticket for under a dollar includes free transfers between the train and the gondolas. Though almost always crowded, the metro runs smoothly and is clean and convenient.
It is, however, the third world. In my scientific research, I concluded that 63% of all utility covers along sidewalks are missing, and the others are broken or welded shut. The greatest danger I faced was the probability of a twisted ankle if I hadn’t watched every step. At first, I though the metal covers for water meters and gas valves were just shoddily constructed, but a Colombian friend explained that once new covers are installed, they’re immediately stolen and sold for scrap metal. New, plastic covers are starting to appear.
After three flights on three different airlines, I can report that not a single one operated satisfactorily. All were late, and gate agents never provided accurate or timely status updates. Once the flights were finally ready for boarding, passengers in the woefully overcrowded waiting rooms surged toward the gate (generally not the gate indicated on the monitors) with no regard for the few orderly gringos and old ladies who’d patiently waited in an orderly line. I wore my massive trekking boots and was sorely tempted to kick some shins, but didn’t.
I had upgrades because of my elite alliance airline status, but coach passengers found the first class seats much more inviting and simply moved in. Surprisingly, crewmembers didn’t dislodge them. One woman seemed to think she could sit on her teenage son’s lap, once he’d snuck into seat 1A. Many of the passengers seemed quite unfamiliar with air travel and snapped many “Look at me! I’m on a real jet airplane!” photos.
I heartily recommend visiting Medellin. It’s previous reputation as an inhospitable place is wholly underserved today. Costs are very low; passersby will frequently smile and greet you with “Welcome to Colombia.” It’s safe, comfortable, and fascinating. Just watch where you’re walking.
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Victor M. Rosello on
Marcela, I love your articles. I post them on my Facebook page, East of the Orteguaza, every chance I get. Please stop by and check out my page, as I, like you, enjoy keeping the American population aware of Colombia and its challenges and world contribuations. Have a nice day. Regards. Victor
JL on
Well said Paul! Medellin is not only one of the most progressive and surprising cities in – and in Latin America – but also a living symbol of how Colombia has changed and keeps improving as a travel destination and as a nation.