It’s Semana Santa! Holy Week is here finally – it’s one of Colombia’s biggest and most important holidays, and a great chance to travel around the country experiencing traditional Colombian cultural celebrations, of which there are many. One of the most iconic takes place in the town of Mompos, a See Colombia favourite.
Mompos is a colonial gem of a town along the banks of the Magdalena River. It moves at its own pace, which could generously be defined as ‘pretty slow.’ Once the third most important city in Colombia, changes along the Magdalena relegated it to the status of ‘backwater,’ but its stunning architecture and laid-back charm remained, making it an increasingly popular location for travellers in search of some old-world charm and relaxation. But we’ve written about Mompos before, and this post is about Easter Week…so why Mompos?
Simple: Mompos plays host to some of Colombia’s most unique and fascinating Easter celebrations. All 7 of the town’s original colonial churches are involved in the Easter processions, making them a tour through history as much as anything. Furthermore (this part’s my favourite), the Easter processions on Thursday and Good Friday are marched in a pretty unusual fashion: two steps forward and one step back. This curious style gives the procession a more rhythmic sense, making it solemn but particularly Colombian at the same time.
Other interesting details of the celebrations include the procession to the Inmaculada Concepción Church, where Nazarenos in turquoise robes kick the doors and throw stones to gain entry; the 4am mass at the Santo Domingo Church; and a large procession through the town on Palm Sunday, commemorating Jesus’ entry into Jerusalem. The whole town is engulfed in the celebration, and traffic empties from the streets (although, this is Mompos, so the traffic on a normal day is pretty much 2 motorbikes and a cyclist!).
Semana Santa is basically Mompos’ only clear ‘high’ season, but it’s worth braving the crowds for the chance to experience such an exceptional and traditional celebration: a commemoration of Colombia’s traditions and its past, set in one of the country’s most exciting and upcoming destinations.
Chris
