{"id":5590,"date":"2012-11-30T05:03:28","date_gmt":"2012-11-30T10:03:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/seecolombia.travel\/blog\/?p=5590"},"modified":"2016-05-05T12:03:55","modified_gmt":"2016-05-05T17:03:55","slug":"la-guajira-part-i-ghosts-hidden-treasures-and-a-crazy-bird-meet-don-jorge-adalberto-solano-the-cave-keeper","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/seecolombia.travel\/blog\/2012\/11\/la-guajira-part-i-ghosts-hidden-treasures-and-a-crazy-bird-meet-don-jorge-adalberto-solano-the-cave-keeper\/","title":{"rendered":"La Guajira Chronicles – Ghosts, hidden treasures and a crazy bird: meet Don Jorge Adalberto Solano, the cave keeper"},"content":{"rendered":"

Versi\u00f3n en castellano :http:\/\/seecolombia.travel\/blog\/2013\/11\/cronicas-de-la-guajira-fantasmas-tesoros-escondidos-y-un-pajaro-loco-conoce-a-don-jorge-solano-encargado-de-la-cueva\/<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Jorge Adalberto Solano Solano, the cave keeper<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

They say it’s about the journey and \u00a0not the destination … but we all are really eager to finally get to the promised cave. Although the scenery is great and it really feels as though we are about to \u00a0live some kind of Indiana Jonish adventure, we \u00a0have already\u00a0been inside the Land Rover for two hours up and down a very bumpy road. We’ve been up\u00a0since 5:30 AM and, AC or not, we’re tired and very sweaty. We are in La Guajira, \u00a0but this is not the\u00a0typical\u00a0all desert, all beach Guajira you may already know about: we’re \u00a0exploring what is known as the baja and media Guajira, the lesser known part of an already not very well known – and\u00a0absolutely\u00a0stunning- \u00a0corner of Colombia that, as you may remember, \u00a0Paul also visited a couple of months ago. (Here’s Paul’s post about La Guajira<\/a>)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
La Cueva de la Perrita<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We’re heading to what is known as “the cave” in the “vereda” (a group of houses not big enough to be called “pueblos”) of El Chorro, we’re almost there and from here we can see the whole town of Fonseca where earlier today we had a very Guajiro “road breakfasts” that deserves a post of it’s own, and although I dont know it yet, I’m about to meet one of the most peculiar characters I have ever encountered in my Colombia trips<\/a>.<\/p>\n

In the early 1930’s Mr. Reginaldo Solano Bolivar was hunting with his dog in a hill not even ten minutes away from his house in El Chorro. As he had done many many times in the past, he was after a sneaky iguana or perhaps a guartinaja that he was already picturing roasted and served over his numerous family’s table. In any case his small crossbreed dog cornered their prey against a rock of walls , Don Reginaldo went toward his diner-to-be and bumped into \u00a0some of the rocks causing a rumble… surprised, and after moving some of the bigger rocks he found a gigantic cave, hidden for centuries \u00a0by the indigenous settlements of El Chorro.<\/p>\n

Seventy- something years later, we have arrived to El Chorro and one of his grand sons, Jorge Adalberto Solano Solano , is guiding us – the group of bloggers and press members invited to La Guajira by Fontur – \u00a0to the very spot where his late grandfather discovered “La cueva de la perrita” (The little bitch’s cave) , named in honor of his now legendary grandather’s pet . Jorge is 48 years old but, like \u00a0most of \u00a0the \u00a0people of La Guajira he looks \u00a0older, he never met his grandfather but he has been a constant presence in his life, after all he and his 11 siblings were baptized at the cave the very same day the town’s priest uselessly tried to change the bitch’s cave name to “La cueva de las 3 Ave Marias”.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Stalactites Gallore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

His first memories of the cave go back to when he was about 6 and how the adults would forbid him to go there , something that of course he never paid much attention to. He never left El Chorro and eventually had six children, but \u00a0his wife left when the\u00a0youngest\u00a0one was only seven, probably\u00a0desperate about the solitude of the place. Now, besides taking care of his farm he proudly shows the very sporadic \u00a0travelers the wonders of this cave.<\/p>\n

The cave is really impressive and the first thing that grabs my attention is the dim light that\u00a0directly\u00a0but barely reflects some very old looking drawings ” Those were made by the old ones” says Jorge pointing at one of the\u00a0hieroglyphs\u00a0” They used this cave as a refuge, to hide in case of danger “. The cave is huge and Jorge tells us he has only been able to walk a small portion of it , the most he has\u00a0spent\u00a0exploring it continuously is one hour, after that it gets\u00a0really\u00a0difficult to breathe.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
A hand by El Chorro’s ancient ones<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Jorge takes out a rope and offers to take us to the next chamber of the cave. Most of the group declines and it’s decided that we\u00a0don’t\u00a0have enough time to do it, I wonder if it has more to do with\u00a0chiroptophobia* than with time\u00a0constraint issues.<\/p>\n

On our way out I casually ask him if he has ever been here by night and, if so, how scary it was. “I’m more afraid of the living” he says “but I have had a couple of scary moments here too”. “Most of the old ones have some of their belongings, their\u00a0treasures, buried right there were you are standing on” continues Jorge, and I admit I feel a current of chill air throughout my spine. “And once I tried to dig looking for those things, but I repented”<\/p>\n

Don Jorge then tells me that he felt that if he would have started digging he would have had to make a pact with “him”, and that he had been tempted by “him” more than once to do so. Some nights, when he is all by himself in the cave he sees strange lights \u00a0in the shape of bells and stars floating around and guiding him to where the hidden treasures are. “Him”, by the way, is none other than the devil himself, \u00a0who Jorge assures has heard once while walking very late by night to the neighbor town of Fonseca. “I clearly heard a horse approaching towards me, as he was getting close I could even feel his breathing … and then when I turned back the only thing I saw was a lot of dust blown away \u00a0by a violent\u00a0current\u00a0 wind passing by my side.”<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Showing us the spot where the buried artifacts supposedly are<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At this point Jorge is\u00a0officially\u00a0the most “Garcia Marquez” character I’ve ever met, but the magic realism\u00a0doesn’t\u00a0stop there. On the way back to his house we meet “Huachi” the Huacharaca, a wild bird that\u00a0alarmingly\u00a0reminds me of a Velociraptor. Huachi behaves both like a pet \u00a0and a jealous girlfriend with Jorge, no woman is allowed to approach him without her either attacking \u00a0or using one of her very loud and\u00a0guttural warning shouts . \u00a0 Her story is also very peculiar: Jorge found 3 Huacharaca’s eggs close to a tree and gave them to his hens to incubate, Huachi was the only one the survived and grew up\u00a0schizophrenically\u00a0 convinced not only that she was a hen but also some kind of guardian dog and\u00a0possessive\u00a0wife, all in one feathery package.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
One does not simply mess with a Huacharaca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the group, we all agree that this would be a perfect destination for trekkers and nature lovers, that Jorge should be trained by someone in the know so he starts profiting of sharing his knowledge of this area with others. And it is true, but in this case the journey and the destination are less important to me than the story of this man, a man that has never ever left his vereda and its\u00a0surroundings\u00a0and who lives happily among his cave, his crazy bird and a magical legacy of\u00a0never ending\u00a0caves and hidden treasures.<\/p>\n

JL<\/p>\n

*chiroptophobia<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Versi\u00f3n en castellano :http:\/\/seecolombia.travel\/blog\/2013\/11\/cronicas-de-la-guajira-fantasmas-tesoros-escondidos-y-un-pajaro-loco-conoce-a-don-jorge-solano-encargado-de-la-cueva\/ They say it’s about the journey and \u00a0not the destination … but we all are really eager to finally get to the promised cave. Although the scenery is great and it really feels as though we are about to \u00a0live some kind of Indiana Jonish adventure, we \u00a0have already\u00a0been inside the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[71,74,3,624,626,4,97,459],"tags":[2986,2865],"yoast_head":"\nLa Guajira Chronicles - Ghosts, hidden treasures and a crazy bird: meet Don Jorge Adalberto Solano, the cave keeper - Colombia Travel Blog by See Colombia Travel<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/seecolombia.travel\/blog\/2012\/11\/la-guajira-part-i-ghosts-hidden-treasures-and-a-crazy-bird-meet-don-jorge-adalberto-solano-the-cave-keeper\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La Guajira Chronicles - Ghosts, hidden treasures and a crazy bird: meet Don Jorge Adalberto Solano, the cave keeper\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Versi\u00f3n en castellano :http:\/\/seecolombia.travel\/blog\/2013\/11\/cronicas-de-la-guajira-fantasmas-tesoros-escondidos-y-un-pajaro-loco-conoce-a-don-jorge-solano-encargado-de-la-cueva\/ They say it’s about the journey and \u00a0not the destination … but we all are really eager to finally get to the promised cave. 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